Flip flops and sandals take a beating over the course of a season. Beach, hot pavement, grass, mud — you name it. And yet most people toss them in a corner at the end of the day without a second thought. I get it — they feel like low-maintenance shoes. But sandals accumulate bacteria, sweat, dead skin cells, and grime at a rate that might genuinely surprise you. Studies have found that flip flops can carry hundreds of thousands of bacteria per square centimeter on the footbed alone. That’s not nothing, especially given how much direct skin contact is involved.
The other issue I see constantly — and I’ve spent years designing sandals and working with shoe brands — is people ruining perfectly good footwear by cleaning it the wrong way. Using the wrong product on the wrong material can warp the shape, crack the footbed, strip the color, or break down the adhesives holding everything together. A pair of sandals that could have lasted three or four seasons ends up in the bin after one bad cleaning attempt.
This guide covers how to clean flip flops and sandals by material type — rubber, EVA foam, leather, and cork — so you know exactly what to do. I’ll also walk through the tools you’ll need and the mistakes that are worth going out of your way to avoid. If you own Birkenstocks, I’d point you toward my dedicated How To Clean Birkenstocks guide, which goes into much greater depth on cork footbed maintenance for that brand.
What you’ll need before you start
Before you touch your sandals with anything, gather the right supplies. Using whatever is under the sink is one of the most common ways people accidentally damage their shoes.
The basic cleaning kit that works across most sandal types:
- A soft-bristle brush — an old toothbrush works well for getting into textured footbeds and around straps
- Mild soap or dish soap — nothing with harsh detergents or bleaching agents
- Microfiber cloths — gentle on surfaces and good at lifting grime without scratching
- Lukewarm water — not hot, never boiling
Specialty products worth having on hand:
- Mild leather cleaner — essential for smooth leather sandals, much gentler than household cleaners
- Leather conditioner — this step gets skipped constantly, and it’s one of the most important
- Cork sealant spray — protects cork footbeds after cleaning and extends their lifespan significantly
- Baking soda — useful for odor treatment and gentle stain lifting on footbeds
What to leave in the cabinet entirely:
Bleach is a hard no. It breaks down adhesives, strips color from straps, and can permanently yellow or weaken EVA foam and rubber. Alcohol-based cleaners are similarly destructive — they dry out leather and cork fast. Abrasive scrubbers and steel wool might seem like they’d tackle stubborn stains, but they scratch and gouge surfaces in ways that can’t be undone.
Do a quick material check before you start. Flip the sandal over, look at the footbed, feel the straps. Rubber? Foam? Leather? Cork-lined? Different materials require completely different approaches, and even a single wrong method can cause real damage. When in doubt, check the brand’s care label or website first.
How to clean rubber and synthetic flip flops
Good news: rubber and synthetic flip flops are the most forgiving type of sandal to clean. Classic beach flip-flops, sport sandals with synthetic straps, and plastic pool slides — all of these are non-porous and water-resistant, which means they can withstand a more thorough wash without warping or absorbing moisture.
Step-by-step:
- Rinse under lukewarm running water to loosen surface dirt, sand, or debris.
- Apply a small amount of mild dish soap to your brush or directly onto the footbed.
- Scrub in circular motions, paying extra attention to the toe area, heel, and edges of the footbed where grime collects.
- Rinse thoroughly until no soap residue remains — leftover soap attracts dirt faster.
- Pat dry with a microfiber cloth and leave them to air dry completely before storing.
Tackling stubborn scuff marks and toe-area staining:
Those dark, foot-shaped impressions on the footbed are a combination of sweat, skin oils, and dirt that build up over time. A paste of baking soda and a few drops of water works well here. Apply it to the stained area with your brush, scrub gently, rinse. For scuff marks on the sides or straps, a magic eraser sponge used lightly can help without causing damage.
One important note on drying: don’t leave rubber sandals in direct sunlight. I know it feels like the obvious call on a sunny day, but UV exposure and heat cause rubber to warp, crack, and fade. A shaded, well-ventilated spot is always the right choice.
How to clean EVA foam sandals and footbeds
EVA — ethylene-vinyl acetate — has become one of the most popular materials in sandal construction over the last decade. Lightweight, cushioning, comfortable. You’ll find it in popular clog styles, sport sandals, recovery slides, and as the footbed material in many everyday sandals.
But EVA gets grubby fast. The foam is slightly porous, which means it picks up dirt and staining easily — especially on the footbed where your foot sits directly against it.
The key rule with EVA: a light touch, no soaking.
Step-by-step:
- Mix a small amount of dish soap into a bowl of lukewarm water — diluted, not concentrated.
- Dip a soft cloth or sponge into the solution and wring it out so it’s damp, not dripping.
- Wipe down the footbed and straps using gentle circular motions. Don’t saturate the surface.
- Use a soft-bristle brush for textured areas or stubborn spots.
- Wipe away any residue with a clean, damp cloth and allow to air-dry completely.
Removing dark toe and heel imprints:
This is one of the most common complaints about EVA sandals, and baking soda is genuinely your best tool here. Mix it with a little water to form a paste, apply it to the stained area, and scrub gently with a brush. Older staining may need a couple of rounds. For more details on this technique, see our guide on how to clean shoe insoles with baking soda.
Two things you should never do with EVA sandals:
Never put them in the washing machine — the agitation and heat will warp the foam structure beyond repair. And keep them away from high heat generally: tumble dryers, direct sun, hot cars. EVA softens and deforms in ways that permanently change the shape and cushioning of the footbed, and there’s no fixing it once it happens.
How to clean leather sandals without drying them out
Leather sandals need the most care. Before you do anything, figure out which type of leather you’re working with — smooth leather, suede, and nubuck each need a completely different approach, and mixing them up is how you cause real damage.
Smooth leather straps and footbeds:
- Wipe down the surface with a barely damp cloth to remove surface dust and dirt.
- Apply a small amount of mild leather cleaner to a clean microfiber cloth — not directly onto the shoe.
- Rub in gentle circular motions across the leather surface, working around straps and into any edges.
- Remove excess cleaner with a fresh, damp cloth and allow the leather to dry away from direct heat.
- Apply leather conditioner once the sandal is fully dry. Most people skip this step. Don’t. Leather that isn’t conditioned after cleaning will dry out and crack — often within a season or two.
Suede and nubuck panels:
Water is your enemy here. Suede and nubuck are highly sensitive to moisture and will stain, stiffen, or lose their texture if they get too wet.
- Use a dry suede brush to lift surface dirt before doing anything else — brush in one direction following the grain.
- For marks and scuffs, a suede eraser (similar to a pencil eraser) with light pressure works well.
- If you’re dealing with a wet stain, blot it — never rub — with a dry microfiber cloth, let it dry completely, then brush it out.
- Never apply water, leather cleaner, or conditioner made for smooth leather onto suede or nubuck. These products will permanently damage the texture.
When to call a professional:
Significant staining, discoloration, or structural damage to leather? That’s a cobbler situation. It’s always better to spend a little on professional cleaning than to attempt a fix that makes things worse. Most cobblers can re-seal and re-condition leather sandals for a very reasonable cost, and it’s worth it. If you need a deeper walkthrough on caring for leather insole sandals, that guide covers the process in more detail.
How to clean cork footbeds on sandals
Cork is one of the best footbed materials out there — it molds to your foot over time, provides natural cushioning, and is genuinely comfortable in ways synthetic materials struggle to replicate. It’s also one of the trickiest to clean. I’ve seen a lot of pairs ruined by oversaturation.
Cork is natural, and it absorbs moisture. When it absorbs too much, it can crack, crumble, warp, or develop mold. The entire goal when cleaning cork is to use as little moisture as possible.
Step-by-step:
- Start with a dry brush to remove any loose dirt or debris from the cork surface.
- Dampen a cloth very lightly — it should feel barely moist when you press it against your hand.
- Add a tiny amount of mild soap to the cloth, not directly to the cork.
- Wipe the cork surface gently, working in small sections. Don’t scrub hard, and don’t let water pool on the surface.
- Use a second clean, damp cloth to remove any soap residue.
- Allow the sandals to dry completely in a well-ventilated area — at least several hours, ideally overnight.
Spot-treating stains on cork:
Apply the cleaning cloth directly to the stained spot with a small amount of mild soap. Work gently and try to keep the surrounding cork as dry as possible.
Resealing cork after cleaning:
Once the cork is clean and fully dry, apply a cork sealant spray. This creates a protective barrier against moisture, dirt, and daily wear. I’d do this at the start of sandal season and again mid-season if you wear them regularly — it’s a small step that makes a real difference over time.
Common flip-flop cleaning mistakes that ruin sandals
Over the years, I’ve heard from a lot of people who were genuinely upset about ruining a favorite pair of sandals. Almost every time, it came down to one of these.
Throwing sandals in the washing machine: The damage is almost always irreversible. Machine agitation twists and stresses the adhesives that hold sandals together. Even a cool wash cycle can warp EVA and synthetic materials. Cork footbeds exposed to machine washing can swell, crack, or separate entirely from the sandal base. The only possible exception is certain rubber-only styles on a cold, gentle cycle — but I still wouldn’t risk it.
Using bleach or alcohol-based cleaners: Bleach strips color, breaks down adhesives, and can yellow lighter materials. Alcohol — including hand sanitizer, which I’ve genuinely seen people reach for — dries out leather and cork aggressively and weakens synthetic materials over time. There’s no situation where these are the right choice.
Soaking leather or cork in water: Leather left sitting in water will stiffen and crack as it dries. Cork that absorbs too much water can swell, crumble at the edges, and separate from the base. Keep moisture exposure brief and controlled, every single time.
Drying sandals in direct sunlight or a hot dryer: Rubber and EVA warp and shrink under high heat. Cork dries out and cracks. Leather fades and loses its suppleness. Suede can develop watermarks and lose its texture. Shade and airflow — that’s it.
Scrubbing with abrasive pads: Those scratchy green scouring pads feel satisfying to use, and they will leave permanent surface damage on EVA, scratch the topcoat of leather, and scuff the finish on synthetic materials. Once those surfaces are scratched, there’s no going back.
Ignoring the straps and only cleaning the footbed: The footbed gets the most attention because the staining is most visible there. But the straps are in contact with your skin all day — bacteria, sweat, and grime build up on them just as readily. If you skip the straps, the odor and bacterial buildup you’re trying to address will keep coming back. One related issue worth addressing separately is how to stop your feet from sweating in sandals, since reducing sweat at the source makes a real difference in how quickly sandals get dirty.
Conclusion
The rule is simple: match your cleaning method to your material. Rubber can handle a thorough wash. EVA needs a damp, gentle touch. Leather needs gentleness and conditioning afterward. Cork needs minimal moisture and a sealant once it’s dry. That’s genuinely most of it.
The simplest habit you can build is a quick wipe-down after each wear — thirty seconds with a damp cloth on the footbed and straps. It dramatically cuts down how often you’ll need a deep clean, and it means you’re never starting from a place of months-old buildup.
Clean sandals mean healthier feet — less bacterial exposure, less odor, better foot hygiene during the months you’re wearing them most. It’s not a big-time investment.
Author
Paula Maureen has collaborated with famous shoe brands and designed popular women’s sandals. As a proofreader, she contributes to foot wisdom.
